Ellen Melinkoff is the author of What We Wore: An Offbeat Social History of Women's Clothing, 1950-1980, published in 1984. This was the perfect book for reading on BART, going to and from my mother's place in SF. She recounts in detail the way women in the U.S. dressed in those three decades: what we wore, how the fashion industry both dictated trends and responded to women's consumption patterns. She notes the styles, the fabrics, the undergarments and accessories worn by different groups of women, talks about the style icons that set the trends (like Jackie Kennedy or Audrey Hepburn), and the important role of peer influence, and changing relations to gender roles. The book covers the fifties, sixties and seventies but doesn't get to the trends of the eighties except to note the wider range of choices. I was too young for the fifties but we still have a few photos of my mother wearing the knock-off Chanel suit she sewed for herself, with white gloves and a Jackie Kennedy pillbox hat. She sewed a lot of our clothes when we were young, but as soon as our family could afford it she started buying our wardrobes in stores. I was in Junior High in the early seventies when we were not allowed to wear pants to school until I was in ninth grade. I don't remember having to kneel on the floor so the length of my skirt could be checked, but I heard stories about it. When we were finally allowed to wear pants to school, we would only do it if our friends were doing it too. I remember a favorite skirt that was blue and green houndstooth, which I wore with a grey sweatshirt. I also remember a brown pleather jumper that was a favorite, and a suede poncho with a zipper and embroidered flowers that was a very special item. In high school, in the mid-seventies, we could wear pants but only hippies wore jeans and were regarded with scorn by the majority; we wore color coordinated outfits, mini-skirts with matching underwear, pastel sweaters. There were micro-trends: a particular long hooded cardigan sweater in three different colors was the dominant fashion item one season. I remember wearing raspberry-colored hotpants that were in a mini overall style. I think I had suede boots with fringe that I wore with them. We also wore ridiculous wooden platform shoes. I had a pair that were denim with rhinestones on them. When I went off to college I found that my hip urban high school wardrobe (elephant pants and big platform shoes) did not fit in either with the sorority preppie styles or the more relaxed, denim-oriented campus style. I now wore cords, painters' pants, an Indian-print wrap-around skirt. We shopped in thrift stores. I started grad school in 1980 and observed the fashion trends from the sidelines because I didn't have the money for new clothes but also didn't really need a wardrobe for work that was any different from student fashions because I was a teaching assistant and rode my bike or walked everywhere; comfort was all. I never wore make-up. I remember realizing that I was unfit for a corporate job because I would not be able to tolerate wearing pantyhose. When it was finally time to apply for a tenure-track position in the late eighties, I wore a plaid blazer over a black pencil skirt that were probably hand-me-downs from my mother. I remember struggling with how I was supposed to dress once I got the professor job. I made a vow that I would not wear anything with a stain or that was ripped. Whatever I wore was too California for my new Minnesota gig, and I had to invest in winter coats, boots and all the necessary gloves and mittens for my new climate. The last chapter of the book is an overview of the college issues of various fashion magazines, which we studied like a textbook.
I was reminded of the Mad Style archive of essays by Tom and Lorenzo on the costume design for Mad Men. I found this great YouTube channel of an LA vintage store entrepreneur, Doris Raymond called The Way We Wore, and I plan to explore it at my leisure.
Here's a YouTube essay on color in the fifties from The Ultimate Fashion History channel, another find, in which we learn about "saturated pastels" and other color palettes of the mid-century:
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